The Beirut

4082 Monroe Street, Toledo, Ohio

**** - Four Stars (out of 5)

One can’t call The Beirut a hidden gem, as it is one of Toledo’s most popular and well established restaurants, having opened in 1977.

But it is a gem nonetheless. The Beirut serves excellent, authentic Lebanese food in a friendly atmosphere.

As with many Middle Eastern restaurants, appetizers are a highlight of the meal. The pita bread is fresh and warm, and still puffy from the oven. The baba ghannouj is delicious, nicely balancing the smoky flavor of roasted eggplant with smooth tahini and the more piquant flavors of lemon juice and garlic. Hommos, leban (thickened yogurt), stuffed grape leaves, and the house salad are also excellent choices.

And then there are the lamb chops. Do not go to The Beirut without trying the lamb chops. Tucked modestly at the bottom of the menu, ambiguously unclear whether they are offered as an appetizer or a main course, The Beirut’s lamb chops are tender, flavorful, and perfectly seasoned — and served practically still sizzling. Four makes a wonderful appetizer, but I prefer eight as a main course — at about $10 and $19, respectively, either is a bargain given the high quality of the meat.

Other main courses include a variety of Lebanese entrees, with an emphasis on grilled meat. The kibbi (like a Middle Eastern meatloaf) is also quite good and has a perfectly subtle undertone of mint. The baked version can be a bit dry, however, so you may want to go for fried kibbi, or, if you’re health conscious, to juice it up with a side order of leban.

I do have a few quibbles: The sauteed shrimp is well flavored and nicely served on seasoned rice, but the shrimps themselves are mealy, lacking the toothsome quality of good, fresh shrimp. The kafta (seasoned ground meat) was overwhelmed with a bitter taste of onion, the result of combining the meat and onion before cooking, rather than cooking the onion first. The method is authentic, but can bring out the worst in a less-than-sweet onion. The shawarma (marinated chicken or beef) is pleasant enough, but the omission of lamb shawarma is regrettable.

And then there’s the Italian food. It’s fine. My 11-year-old loves the pizza and ravioli. But, honestly, it’s unambitious “red sauce” Italian that, I have to assume, is on the menu because Lebanese food was quite unfamiliar to many people when The Beirut opened. It’s a detour, not a destination.

Finally, The Beirut performs well on the non-food aspects of dinner. The service is consistently friendly — including child friendly — but the dark, well-decorated dining room would also work well for a romantic dinner for two. The prices are quite reasonable — dinner for two (including appetizers) will probably run about $50. But do consider reservations, as The Beirut is justifiably popular.

The Beirut Official Site (warning: music plays if you launch the site)

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